Perhaps one of the better, more exciting trips I have had the chance to go on has been the day trip to Avila. I came into the trip with a set of expectations and left with some surprising answers that challenged my assumptions about Spanish history.
I thought initially that Avila would most likely be one of those little towns founded in the Middle Ages as the surrounding countryside developed to support the feudalistic society of the time, much like the development of several cities in Europe around that time. Although the city was still old, I expected to see a sleepy little town nestled in the countryside.
What I found out about Avila was far from my presumptions. Indeed, the town has existed since the Middle Ages, but looking from the Middle Ages forward would be maybe half the story. People have been living in the valley of present day Avila since recorded history began. The Vuttones have lived, made war, practiced religion, and raised cattle in the valley for millenia. The Romans were the first to settle in the region during their subjugation of the lesser tribes, a process that lasted until the second century BC. The present day name of the city is a corruption of Obila, the original Roman name for the city. Over the centuries, the city has also been in the in the hands of the Visigoths and the Moors before finally being reintegrated into Spain during the Reconquista.
There were several interesting landmarks around the city. Most prominently, the city wall, which dominates the view of the old district, was built in 1090 by the Spanish to protect it during the Reconquista. It is in surprisingly good repair for its age, and it seemed to me that some sections looked like they were under restoration, as I saw the occasional scaffolding and green netting to keep debris from falling into the road. Avila is also famous for the Convento de Santa Teresa, named for Saint Teresa, who was born there in 1517. She is known for working hard to reform the convent, which had been living in the lap of luxury for years, rather than living modestly and aiding the people of the community.
The other big surprise was how modern the city was, despite its age. Since I didn't pick up a map of the city, the circular busline seemed the most logical way to find the old wall and the historic district. Along they way, we passed modern supermarkets, highways, and all the conveniences you would expect of a bigger city, minus traffic lights interestingly enough. I assume they designed the later development of the city to accomodate this feature as a way to reduce light pollution around the historic district, as the city is now a World Culture Landmark.
Overall, I had a great experience in Avila, and enjoyed that side trip the most so far.
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